We flew to Osaka from Kagoshima because we were picking up a bass guitar. That was all to it. I don’t really like Osaka and its crowds of tourists. And I definitely wanted to go back to Kumamoto once we landed in Itami Airport. But Osaka grew on me. With its chaotic and noisy streets, I found that the city was not anymore as loud as the first time I was there in 2024. I learned to go with it and found different escape routes. However, no matter how much we avoided it, we always end up in Dotonbori! I guess we just had to pass through it to reach our accommodation. But luckily, our hotel was tucked away behind Dotonburi in a quiet residential neighbourhood.
The first escape was a lovely breakfast place down the road. It was run by an older Japanese couple and it had such a retro vibe to it. It was nice and peaceful. And since, we were already in Osaka and it was the Cherry Blossom season, we also planned a day trip to Mt Yoshino in Nara and that was a perfect plan. We took the Limited Express Sakura Liner train from Abenobashi station to Yoshino and the adventure began! We climbed the mountain and saw the most beautiful thing. Waves and waves of different shades of pink and purple covered the mountain. I can’t believe my eyes. It was so beautiful and was surely worth every climb. We also got to taste different food and snacks along the way. It was tiring yet it was so fun!
Another escape was going to Sakai to get some kitchen knives. It was a beautiful and peaceful part of Osaka that visitors should not missed. The river was lined with Cherry Blossoms and pink Camellias. And of course, there was shopping, eating and more rummaging of old vinyl records at Shinsaibashi… Osaka was fun after all!
After 4 nights in Osaka, it was time to fly back to Seoul…
The weather forecast for our three nights in Kagoshima was rainy. There was a light rain when we arrived. But we still took the ferry to Sakurajima the next day. Sakurajima is the most active volcano in Japan and it erupts on a daily basis. Therefore Kagoshima is such a unique place where an active volcano and a city coexist. It was cloudy but we did see Sakurajima up close at Yunohira Observatory which is the closest public point to the volcano. I guess what I didn’t like about this trip was the amount of tourists. The Sakurajima Island View bus was so full that it was so uncomfortable. But the island was full of Camellias and Cherry Blossoms which was lovely.
However, when we left Sakurajima, the sun began shining. So we had a lovely time at Sengan-en Garden. It’s one of the most beautiful gardens I’ve ever been with Sakurajima in the background. There were lots of Cherry Blossoms and different kinds of flowers. It was just so pretty! We had Shirokuma, a kakigori with a bear face at the cafe and joined a stamp rally too. It was such a fun day!
But the highlight of the trip to Kagoshima was something that I didn’t know about and didn’t plan for. At the station, I saw a poster of a koala at Hirakawa Zoological Park. I didn’t know there was a zoo and I didn’t know that there are koalas. I always thought that I can only see koalas in Australia. But Hirakawa Zoo is one of the first zoos in Japan to breed koalas so I met around 20 of them. Even a baby one! It was my first time and suddenly, my life became complete! Although, it was raining and we missed the entrance gate resulting to a longer walk under our very wet umbrellas, we enjoyed the rainy day at the zoo. There was hardly anyone and we got to spend time with the animals by ourselves, especially the extremely cute red panda. It was the most perfect red panda I’ve ever seen!
After three nights in Kagoshima enjoying the sights, food and shopping, it was time for us to fly to Osaka…
We took the bus to Aso station and then a local bus to reach our Onsen stay for this trip. The place was not as elaborate as the one we had in Kurokawa Onsen. But the Onsen water and the dinner were so much better. And we got to pass by the cutest name of a town – Cuddly Dominion! So cuddly!
It was so nice to be in a small Onsen town surrounded with many beautiful trees and mountains. After using the private onsen, we ate dinner for almost two hours. It was served at our room and it was so delicious! All the ingredients were locally grown and very fresh. It was indeed a heartfelt cuisine! The free flowing spring water at the onsen was amazing. It felt so good to the skin compared to the other Onsens I’ve been. I was so happy that we did this trip. And we slept so well!
We woke up to a beautiful, sunny morning and went straight to the private onsen before heading to breakfast. The breakfast was so good too that after a few hours, we were still so full! We headed back to Kumamoto station and took the Shinkansen to Kagoshima. The train went so fast!
Someone was deplaned from our flight to Kumamoto! We were delayed because they needed to retrieve the luggage out of the plane. In my many years of flying, this was my first time experiencing a deplaning incident. So we arrived in Kumamoto a bit later than expected. It was already dark. But coming to Japan is always about food and the mandatory stop at a convenience store. And so, we did just that with no regrets!
The next day, we walked through the Shimotori Shopping Arcade which was very near to our hotel and had breakfast there. I’m so loving Kumamoto already and its peaceful vibe. There were very few tourists and the locals are so friendly. Kumamon too was greeting us everywhere we went. He was even on top of Sakura Machi! There were lots of Cherry Blossoms and it was just so beautiful!
Besides visiting Kumamoto Castle grounds and Sakura-No-Baba Josain, we also went to Suizenji Jojuen Garden. Suizenji Jojuen Garden is a traditional Japanese garden called a Graceful Garden of Feudal Lords. It was designated as a national scenic and historical site since 1929. It is a very beautiful garden with lots of Cherry blossoms adorning the garden. There were many activities happening too, like making traditional handicrafts.
After three nights in Kumamoto enjoying the food, sights and shopping (including rummaging through hundreds of old vinyls records), it was time to take the bus to Aso for a night at the Onsen…
The last time I left Seoul, I said I’m not coming back. But now that two years had passed, I returned. I still wanted to eat authentic and cheap Bibimbap in a simple setting and I was terribly missing the Banana Milk from the convenience store. So not coming back was not an option at all! But also, flying straight from Helsinki to anywhere in Japan during the Sakura season is so costly. It is so much less expensive to fly to Japan from Incheon. So here we were for a night in Incheon, a short train (next stop) ride away from the airport and really enjoyed it! There were already Cherry Blossoms and it really made me happy. Stepping into South Korea again made my heart full!
After checking in to the hotel, we headed out in search for Bibimbap and the simple restaurant didn’t dissapoint us. The Bibimbap was so good. Pairing it with Kimchi and Danmuji, it was amazing! Then we went to the convenience store next door for Banana Milk and thought that this one night in Incheon was a perfect decision. And not only that, we saw a Bungeoppang stall on the way back to the hotel, making the night complete!
It seems like summer would not be complete without a trip to a new city. This time we decided to go to a city that is so close yet felt so far away. Far away in a sense because I have never really been interested in Riga. It is one of those cities that I’ve been putting off for a long, long time. But there were still a few days of summer holiday. So we went for it and made Latvia my 52nd country.
We arrived very early in Riga on a small airplane from Helsinki with only one hand-carry. It was fun to walk around the old town when everything was closed. The old town was really pretty and since the centre of Riga is quite small, we spent a large amount of our holiday in the old town. There are also many beautiful public parks in Riga. I love how these parks are large, clean and peaceful. Another thing that was very beautiful in Riga was the Art Nouveau architecture built in the early 20th century during the period of rapid economic growth and Riga was a thriving city of the Russian Empire. I also love the Art Deco cafes dating from 1920s. One of the highlights was visiting the Laima Chocolate Museum from 1870. It was fun to learn about its history and eat lots and lots of chocolate. The hot chocolate was almost death by chocolate! This is one place that should not be missed in Riga.
We also did a day trip to Jūrmala. Jūrmala is a coast town facing the Baltic Sea, some 30 minutes train ride from Riga. The train was clean and modern and only cost 4 EUR per person both ways. There we enjoyed the sun, sea, sand, great food and rain.
Summer came to Helsinki and it was time to get on the camper van that we had reserved half year ago. Camper van rentals tend to be fully booked during the summer. It was even difficult to find one in December. But luckily we did and we were ready to go and explore the roads leading to Senja in Norway!
It was not our first time to rent a camper van to explore the Finnish Lapland and the Northern part of Norway. It was not our first time in Senja either. But these places seem to be the perfect holiday destinations on a camper van in the summer. Summer in Europe tends to get really warm nowadays so going north is very appealing to escape the summer heat.
We left Helsinki before 18.00 with everything we need for our 10 nights journey. There were 5 people in a small space and we wondered how we will survive the trip. The drive was beautiful with the purple and pink flowers adorning the road at every corner. The first stop after a long drive was at a camper van parking in Viitasaari to spend the night. The parking area was beside the lake so the view was lovely. We woke up early and were ready to drive even longer to reach as north as possible and to cross the Arctic Circle. We reached Palojoensuu and parked on an area by the lake for the night. It was raining and we slept early, ready for the next day. The goal was to reach Norway and spend the next night in Senja. It was a long and tiring drive but nothing beats the beautiful view along the roads of Finland, overlooking Sweden while entering Norway. We even tried fishing along the way.
We then reached the camping site in Senja and it was so beautiful. We parked close to the lake surrounded by snow capped mountains with the perfect sunset and sunrise views. There was also a flower field that seemed like I stepped inside Van Gogh’s painting! We stayed two nights in this camping site.
The next day, we parked the van to hike Segla. We were sweating. But then it rained, making it wet and muddy. There was also a very strong wind, something I haven’t experienced before. I honestly thought I would fly away…
After the rainy and very windy hiking experience, we drove to Skaland to look for a camp to stay for a night. We were all so sweaty, wet and muddy from rain that all we can think about was taking a shower and putting on dry clothes. Our van was facing the lake when a beautiful rainbow appeared. In the morning, we saw baby whales enjoying their swim. It was a sight to remember!
We moved to another campsite and this time, Ari bought another fishing rod and caught 3 big fish! So while we were waiting for the ferry to get to Sommaroy the next day, everyone was hoping to catch a fish. And they did!
Sommaroy was so pretty too. It was fun to have barbecue at the camp and to walk by the beautiful beach. We stayed one night in Sommaroy.
The next day, we were ready to explore a city. So we drove to Tromso and enjoyed a walk around town before heading back to Finland. We reached Kilpisjärvi for the night and enjoyed a hike to Saana. When we hiked down, we saw a reindeer on the hiking path. We were so closed to it. I was scared at first but it didn’t really mind us.
Then it was time to visit Santa Claus. We drove to Rovaniemi and stayed at the parking area across the Santa Claus Village. We wanted to see Santa Claus first thing in the morning before we headed south. But we also walked to Santa Claus Village at midnight and crossed the Arctic Circle in the village square. There was no one there. The morning came and we got to meet Santa Claus. It was a fun chat with lots of laughter. No photos inside the room was allowed though.
Then for the last evening, we stayed in Niemenharju. This camping area has great facilities. We enjoyed the sauna and it was a perfect way to spend our last evening in a camper van.
It was the best road trip ever! I really enjoyed the long drive, the beautiful nature, having breakfast together, the meals and barbecues and spending time with each other. I love my tiny corner in the van where I read, journaled and listened to music. The stops along the way were also enjoyable. Even the grocery run was fun as we planned for our meals and stocking up on snacks too. It was a 10 out of 10!
You can find the travel journal of this road trip here.
Nagoya was a fun city to just chill and relax. All I wanted was to take a photo of my Traveler’s Notebook with Nagoya Tower and we did just that. We walked, we shopped, we ate in Nagoya. No other plans whatsoever. I thought we were going to Nagoya Castle but it was so hot that we skipped it. I can’t imagine walking the castle grounds under the hot sun and I’m not into castle either. So we just chased colourful stamps and just enjoyed the long walk with lots of eating in between! We saw a long queue for a Japanese pop group called Impact or was it actually IMP ACT. I think the fans were buying concert tickets and they were all nicely dressed with their photocards and plushies. It was so fun for me to see it!
I love Nagoya. It was not crowded, there were very few tourists and they have lovely peaceful gardens. It was nice to shop because we didn’t have to queue like in Tokyo. Shopping at Uniqlo and Muji was so peaceful and so was Donki. Accommodation was very affordable and lots of cheap yet delicious eats. It was a lovely ending of this trip!
For the never ending repeating tips:
A good pair of walking shoes is a must and be prepared for the stairs!
Registering online at Visit Japan Web for the QR codes for immigration and customs made entering Japan so much faster. I would also say that Chubu Centrair International Airport was the best!
Having an IC card was really useful when using public transport and also paying for convenience store purchases. I also recommend the Tokyo Metro Pass.
It’s fine to buy train tickets at the station. No need to buy beforehand as trains have large capacity to accommodate passengers.
It’s good to have cash as many places only take cash, like street food vendors, small local shops and restaurants and small places like the Kiso Valley.
Having a pocket wifi all the time was very good because we really need to be connected to check on routes and locations. I highly recommend it and it is not expensive at all!
Buy flight tickets early as prices tend to spike up.
Book accommodation that has free cancellation because there might be changes along the way.
In the end, I realised that the very reason why I love Japan is because of the nature and food. I also enjoy looking for stamps and ephemera for my journals. I also like the safety and clean toilets. Also, it is really affordable at this time. I always asked myself after the end of every Japan trip if I wished to return to Japan again. And again this time, it is a yes! I would love to walk in Nagano along the very tall Cedar trees…
Hiking the Nakasendo Trail was something that had attracted me for some years now. So hiking even just a tiny part from Magome to Tsumago felt great! The Nakasendo Trail is one of Japan’s most famous walking paths known as the Samurai Road in the Kiso Valley. It was not a difficult 8.5 km hike but the sun was shining brightly so it was hot. I didn’t anticipate that the umbrella I bought with me in case of rain would help to protect from the strong sun. I also rang all the bells to scare the bears! There were lots of Wisterias too. So beautiful and a sight that I’ve never seen before. They were on the mountains and the paths we passed by. They also smelt so good and sweet! Here is a short clip at Tateba-chaya Teahouse, around halfway from Magome to Tsumago where they offer a place to rest, some candies, a cup of tea and some coloured chalks to write on the wall where the hikers from for that day.
When we arrived in Tsumago, I got certificates and more stamps for my journal from the Tourist Information Centre. I got 15 stamps during this short walk. We had a late lunch of soba in Tsumago before getting on a bus to Nagiso then the train to Nagoya Station. We had to pay everything in cash including the train tickets back to Nagoya. So if you are planning to do this hike, prepare some cash.
On the train from Nagiso to Nagoya Station.
The top one proved that I have walked from Magome to Tsumago and the other one says I have visited Tsumago Juku. These are not paper certificates though but certificates made of super thin wood. So pretty!
My hope is to walk another part of the Nakasendo trail in the near future!
The last time we were in Tokyo was in October 2023. Because although we were in Japan twice last year, we decided to skip Tokyo altogether. But this time, we were on a mission so we had to include Tokyo for three nights. There were five reasons:
For me, it was to find the new Love and Trip Traveler’s Notebook that was sold out in Europe
To make a photo of my Tokyo Station Traveler’s Notebook infront of Tokyo Station
And to see the Tokyo Tower again after 40 years
For my husband, it was to find a guitar
And to get the replacement part of his tripod that we bought in Osaka in December last year.
To be honest, Tokyo is not my favourite place in Japan but here we were with these quests. Tokyo was a mixture of clouds, rain, showers and sun during this time. But one fun part was staying at a ryokan in Yanaka. I love the old retro vibe of this area. And if I ever return to Tokyo again one day, I will definitely stay in this part of Tokyo.
For the Tokyo part of this trip, I’ll be posting random iPhone photos.
So first thing first! We landed at Narita Airport from Sapporo and the first thing we did was to go to Traveler’s Factory to get the new Love and Trip Traveler’s Notebook. The price of the Regular size and the Passport size together was lower compared to the price of the Regular size one in Europe. That was great price-wise! So the first quest was immediately accomplished!
Then after checking in at our ryokan in Taito, we headed to Ikebukuro for the guitar quest. The first guitar my husband tried in the shop, I knew it was the one. So after getting to the next shop appointment, the guitar was bought during our first night in Tokyo!
For the next day, we went to Fukoku Friendly Forest to get layered stamps! You can find the stamp rally here. So cute! Then off to Tokyo Station!
At the Tokyo Station, the third quest was done! Two more to go! So the next day, we went to see Tokyo Tower. But at this point, there was a change of plan. We were supposed to go to Kamakura for the Mt Fuji view by the beach but Mt Fuji’s visibility was so low that we decided to go to TeamLabs Borderless instead since it was very close to Tokyo Tower. We bought tickets the night before with no problem. So I don’t think it is worth for people to get stressed about buying tickets for it.
Saw Tokyo Tower again after 40 years! The first time I was in Japan was 40 long years ago! Well, four quests down!
TeamLabs Borderless was great but there were exhibits that I’ve already seen in Helsinki at a smaller scale. And the drawing that will appear on the wall was something that we already did in Helsinki some years ago so it was nothing so special to me anymore. I also thought the tickets were on the expensive side.
The next day, we had to get the replacement part of the tripod. My husband was in touch with the company so we had an appointment. It was near the Hokusai Museum where we visited in 2018. It was fun to walk around to see if the old familiar places still exist. Here we had a photo in 2018 but the old restaurant where we had fun talking to the owner was not there anymore.
Then we went to a cafe for a strong coffee and a Melon Cream Soda that I ordered out of curiosity. Cream Sodas are quite a thing in Japan so I wanted to try it!
Then it was time for our last quest – to get the replacement part of the tripod. We were met by an office staff at the entrance of the building who happened to be the translator and ushered us into the meeting room. I didn’t realise that the two people at the meeting room were meeting with us too. It seems like the smartly dressed woman was the administrator and the other person in suit and white gloves was the technician. He checked the tripod over nice, friendly conversations with the help of the translator then gave us the replacement part for free. They also gave us company gifts. It was so surreal! I just can’t believe what had just happened!
So this ended our time in Tokyo which made me more confident in navigating the stations and Tokyo subways. The Tokyo Metro Pass was also great because we didn’t need to worry about paying extra when we entered or exited the wrong station. I would recommend it! I didn’t write everything we did in Tokyo over the last four days, like going to Tokyo Station Traveler’s Company and Character Street, playing Gashapon at the largest Gashapon store in the world in Sunshine City, checking out Ueno, going to Guitar Street, Itoya, GU, Uniqlo, Muji, Sanrio Gift Gate, all the places where we ate and the Convenience store run we did every evening. It was also fun to collect stamps over the last four days. Although I didn’t get to finish the Studio Ghibli Stamp Rally, I was happy to get two stamps out of four! One regret was going to CIBI, an Australian breakfast place. It was not worth for the high price and the slightly burned bread that was really hard to eat. I guess it was overhyped with many locals on a Sunday morning.
We took the luggage from the ryokan including the guitar then we were off to Tokyo Station for the Shinkansen to Nagoya. It was my first time to have a Melon Schweppes!
Tomorrow, we will be walking a part of the Nakasendo Trail in Kiso Valley!
Please, don’t forget to check out the links to see more!
The things I've seen. The places I've been. 