We were back in Seoul for the sole purpose of eating Bibimbap and to catch our flight back to Helsinki. We did eat Bibimbap for most of our meals and lots of Banana Milk too. Fun fact was, there was a stamp tour happening in Seoul. So I was able to get stamps for my journal. That was something new for me after being back and I got a souvenir for completing the stamp tour too. So fun! The Mobile Tourist Information Staff were really friendly as they stamp their way to my journal. And the stamps are so pretty!
But the main thing for me in Seoul was to really enjoy the traditional tea houses. I love these tea houses. I love the old traditional atmosphere and the ambience of older people chatting away. There was beauty in them. We also planned to walk the 10 km stretch of the Cheonggyecheon Stream. We did half way and decided that we already did a lot of walking during our two weeks holiday. This time we also stayed at Jongno 3 that was close to both Insadong and Ikseondong Hanok Village. The location was so convenient that even Myeongdong was reacheable by foot. Jongno 3 was also a good place to watch the daily lives of the locals. Streets were filled with food tents and stalls. Many elderly people passing by. Some were drank. Some were sober. People drinking coffee. Some old people pulling their carts full of cardboard boxes, just like from the K-dramas where the heroes help to push. People just going about their day. Just the ordinary everyday life that I enjoyed watching.
Although I’m not a fan of palaces, we visited two this time. First was the Deoksugung Palace as recommended by the Tourist Information Staff because of the Cherry Blossoms there. And since we were in that area already, we decided to also visit the Gyengbokgung Palace to experience seeing lots of tourists wearing the traditional Hanbok. It was fun! But the sun was also blazing hot. I was totally unprepared for it as I walked under the heat of the bright sun. And did you know that under Gwanghwamun Square is a large underground area? I didn’t know that! So that was interesting to explore.
It was hard to say goodbye to Seoul as I bear the thought of not coming back. But let’s see. Let’s see…
We took the bus to Aso station and then a local bus to reach our Onsen stay for this trip. The place was not as elaborate as the one we had in Kurokawa Onsen. But the Onsen water and the dinner were so much better. And we got to pass by the cutest name of a town – Cuddly Dominion! So cuddly!
It was so nice to be in a small Onsen town surrounded with many beautiful trees and mountains. After using the private onsen, we ate dinner for almost two hours. It was served at our room and it was so delicious! All the ingredients were locally grown and very fresh. It was indeed a heartfelt cuisine! The free flowing spring water at the onsen was amazing. It felt so good to the skin compared to the other Onsens I’ve been. I was so happy that we did this trip. And we slept so well!
We woke up to a beautiful, sunny morning and went straight to the private onsen before heading to breakfast. The breakfast was so good too that after a few hours, we were still so full! We headed back to Kumamoto station and took the Shinkansen to Kagoshima. The train went so fast!
Someone was deplaned from our flight to Kumamoto! We were delayed because they needed to retrieve the luggage out of the plane. In my many years of flying, this was my first time experiencing a deplaning incident. So we arrived in Kumamoto a bit later than expected. It was already dark. But coming to Japan is always about food and the mandatory stop at a convenience store. And so, we did just that with no regrets!
The next day, we walked through the Shimotori Shopping Arcade which was very near to our hotel and had breakfast there. I’m so loving Kumamoto already and its peaceful vibe. There were very few tourists and the locals are so friendly. Kumamon too was greeting us everywhere we went. He was even on top of Sakura Machi! There were lots of Cherry Blossoms and it was just so beautiful!
Besides visiting Kumamoto Castle grounds and Sakura-No-Baba Josain, we also went to Suizenji Jojuen Garden. Suizenji Jojuen Garden is a traditional Japanese garden called a Graceful Garden of Feudal Lords. It was designated as a national scenic and historical site since 1929. It is a very beautiful garden with lots of Cherry blossoms adorning the garden. There were many activities happening too, like making traditional handicrafts.
After three nights in Kumamoto enjoying the food, sights and shopping (including rummaging through hundreds of old vinyls records), it was time to take the bus to Aso for a night at the Onsen…
Nagoya was a fun city to just chill and relax. All I wanted was to take a photo of my Traveler’s Notebook with Nagoya Tower and we did just that. We walked, we shopped, we ate in Nagoya. No other plans whatsoever. I thought we were going to Nagoya Castle but it was so hot that we skipped it. I can’t imagine walking the castle grounds under the hot sun and I’m not into castle either. So we just chased colourful stamps and just enjoyed the long walk with lots of eating in between! We saw a long queue for a Japanese pop group called Impact or was it actually IMP ACT. I think the fans were buying concert tickets and they were all nicely dressed with their photocards and plushies. It was so fun for me to see it!
I love Nagoya. It was not crowded, there were very few tourists and they have lovely peaceful gardens. It was nice to shop because we didn’t have to queue like in Tokyo. Shopping at Uniqlo and Muji was so peaceful and so was Donki. Accommodation was very affordable and lots of cheap yet delicious eats. It was a lovely ending of this trip!
For the never ending repeating tips:
A good pair of walking shoes is a must and be prepared for the stairs!
Registering online at Visit Japan Web for the QR codes for immigration and customs made entering Japan so much faster. I would also say that Chubu Centrair International Airport was the best!
Having an IC card was really useful when using public transport and also paying for convenience store purchases. I also recommend the Tokyo Metro Pass.
It’s fine to buy train tickets at the station. No need to buy beforehand as trains have large capacity to accommodate passengers.
It’s good to have cash as many places only take cash, like street food vendors, small local shops and restaurants and small places like the Kiso Valley.
Having a pocket wifi all the time was very good because we really need to be connected to check on routes and locations. I highly recommend it and it is not expensive at all!
Buy flight tickets early as prices tend to spike up.
Book accommodation that has free cancellation because there might be changes along the way.
In the end, I realised that the very reason why I love Japan is because of the nature and food. I also enjoy looking for stamps and ephemera for my journals. I also like the safety and clean toilets. Also, it is really affordable at this time. I always asked myself after the end of every Japan trip if I wished to return to Japan again. And again this time, it is a yes! I would love to walk in Nagano along the very tall Cedar trees…
Hiking the Nakasendo Trail was something that had attracted me for some years now. So hiking even just a tiny part from Magome to Tsumago felt great! The Nakasendo Trail is one of Japan’s most famous walking paths known as the Samurai Road in the Kiso Valley. It was not a difficult 8.5 km hike but the sun was shining brightly so it was hot. I didn’t anticipate that the umbrella I bought with me in case of rain would help to protect from the strong sun. I also rang all the bells to scare the bears! There were lots of Wisterias too. So beautiful and a sight that I’ve never seen before. They were on the mountains and the paths we passed by. They also smelt so good and sweet! Here is a short clip at Tateba-chaya Teahouse, around halfway from Magome to Tsumago where they offer a place to rest, some candies, a cup of tea and some coloured chalks to write on the wall where the hikers from for that day.
When we arrived in Tsumago, I got certificates and more stamps for my journal from the Tourist Information Centre. I got 15 stamps during this short walk. We had a late lunch of soba in Tsumago before getting on a bus to Nagiso then the train to Nagoya Station. We had to pay everything in cash including the train tickets back to Nagoya. So if you are planning to do this hike, prepare some cash.
On the train from Nagiso to Nagoya Station.
The top one proved that I have walked from Magome to Tsumago and the other one says I have visited Tsumago Juku. These are not paper certificates though but certificates made of super thin wood. So pretty!
My hope is to walk another part of the Nakasendo trail in the near future!
The last time we were in Tokyo was in October 2023. Because although we were in Japan twice last year, we decided to skip Tokyo altogether. But this time, we were on a mission so we had to include Tokyo for three nights. There were five reasons:
For me, it was to find the new Love and Trip Traveler’s Notebook that was sold out in Europe
To make a photo of my Tokyo Station Traveler’s Notebook infront of Tokyo Station
And to see the Tokyo Tower again after 40 years
For my husband, it was to find a guitar
And to get the replacement part of his tripod that we bought in Osaka in December last year.
To be honest, Tokyo is not my favourite place in Japan but here we were with these quests. Tokyo was a mixture of clouds, rain, showers and sun during this time. But one fun part was staying at a ryokan in Yanaka. I love the old retro vibe of this area. And if I ever return to Tokyo again one day, I will definitely stay in this part of Tokyo.
For the Tokyo part of this trip, I’ll be posting random iPhone photos.
So first thing first! We landed at Narita Airport from Sapporo and the first thing we did was to go to Traveler’s Factory to get the new Love and Trip Traveler’s Notebook. The price of the Regular size and the Passport size together was lower compared to the price of the Regular size one in Europe. That was great price-wise! So the first quest was immediately accomplished!
Then after checking in at our ryokan in Taito, we headed to Ikebukuro for the guitar quest. The first guitar my husband tried in the shop, I knew it was the one. So after getting to the next shop appointment, the guitar was bought during our first night in Tokyo!
For the next day, we went to Fukoku Friendly Forest to get layered stamps! You can find the stamp rally here. So cute! Then off to Tokyo Station!
At the Tokyo Station, the third quest was done! Two more to go! So the next day, we went to see Tokyo Tower. But at this point, there was a change of plan. We were supposed to go to Kamakura for the Mt Fuji view by the beach but Mt Fuji’s visibility was so low that we decided to go to TeamLabs Borderless instead since it was very close to Tokyo Tower. We bought tickets the night before with no problem. So I don’t think it is worth for people to get stressed about buying tickets for it.
Saw Tokyo Tower again after 40 years! The first time I was in Japan was 40 long years ago! Well, four quests down!
TeamLabs Borderless was great but there were exhibits that I’ve already seen in Helsinki at a smaller scale. And the drawing that will appear on the wall was something that we already did in Helsinki some years ago so it was nothing so special to me anymore. I also thought the tickets were on the expensive side.
The next day, we had to get the replacement part of the tripod. My husband was in touch with the company so we had an appointment. It was near the Hokusai Museum where we visited in 2018. It was fun to walk around to see if the old familiar places still exist. Here we had a photo in 2018 but the old restaurant where we had fun talking to the owner was not there anymore.
Then we went to a cafe for a strong coffee and a Melon Cream Soda that I ordered out of curiosity. Cream Sodas are quite a thing in Japan so I wanted to try it!
Then it was time for our last quest – to get the replacement part of the tripod. We were met by an office staff at the entrance of the building who happened to be the translator and ushered us into the meeting room. I didn’t realise that the two people at the meeting room were meeting with us too. It seems like the smartly dressed woman was the administrator and the other person in suit and white gloves was the technician. He checked the tripod over nice, friendly conversations with the help of the translator then gave us the replacement part for free. They also gave us company gifts. It was so surreal! I just can’t believe what had just happened!
So this ended our time in Tokyo which made me more confident in navigating the stations and Tokyo subways. The Tokyo Metro Pass was also great because we didn’t need to worry about paying extra when we entered or exited the wrong station. I would recommend it! I didn’t write everything we did in Tokyo over the last four days, like going to Tokyo Station Traveler’s Company and Character Street, playing Gashapon at the largest Gashapon store in the world in Sunshine City, checking out Ueno, going to Guitar Street, Itoya, GU, Uniqlo, Muji, Sanrio Gift Gate, all the places where we ate and the Convenience store run we did every evening. It was also fun to collect stamps over the last four days. Although I didn’t get to finish the Studio Ghibli Stamp Rally, I was happy to get two stamps out of four! One regret was going to CIBI, an Australian breakfast place. It was not worth for the high price and the slightly burned bread that was really hard to eat. I guess it was overhyped with many locals on a Sunday morning.
We took the luggage from the ryokan including the guitar then we were off to Tokyo Station for the Shinkansen to Nagoya. It was my first time to have a Melon Schweppes!
Tomorrow, we will be walking a part of the Nakasendo Trail in Kiso Valley!
Please, don’t forget to check out the links to see more!
It was our last day in Sapporo and the plan was to experience more Cherry Blossom snowstorm, the prettiest pink snowstorm. So after breakfast at Komeda’s Coffee (sixth time in Japan, first time at Komeda’s Coffee!), we headed to Nayajima Park that was now covered in Cherry Blossom carpet. So pretty! The most beautiful sight ever!
For our last meal in Sapporo, we ate at a 60 years old soba restaurant. So delicious with such an authentic feel! You can have a look at the restaurant here.
So that ended our short trip to beautiful Sapporo. Tomorrow, off to an early flight to Tokyo!
Otaru is a must visit when in Sapporo. But it was not because of the Otaru Canal and its surroundings, it’s because of Temiya Park.
Temiya Park is the fourth oldest existing urban park in Hokkaido located on a hill with a beautiful ocean view. There are around 700 cherry trees of different varieties in the park that makes cherry blossom viewing so beautiful. I love how this park shows off different layers of beauty. From the light blue sky, to the snow capped mountains, to the brilliant blue ocean, to the emerald grass, to the pretty shades of pink… It was such a divine view! Here I’ve also experienced the Cherry Blossom snowstorm that gives a very warm feeling of Spring. I was so happy to get to see all of this!
It only took just over an hour to reach Otaru from Sapporo by bus. It is also a must to try the local snacks, like Hokkaido ice-cream, steam buns and Hokkaido sweet potatoes covered in rich butter. Don’t miss them before heading back to Sapporo.
Back at our hotel, another evening came to Sapporo. Tomorrow is our last day. Tired yet happy!
We flew in to Sapporo from Nagoya on a Peach airline, a budget airline which was really cheap. It was a good flight as we can gradually see the sun shining brightly after leaving the rainy Nagoya. As we approached Sapporo, the beautiful snow capped mountains from afar revealed themselves. So beautiful!
We took the bus from Chitose Airport to downtown Sapporo which took about an hour. Our hotel was facing the Odori Park and we really liked it there. I love the peaceful Sapporo atmosphere with few tourists. And the weather was just perfect.
For our first proper meal, my husband googled a ramen place near our hotel. But when we followed the map, we couldn’t find it, although, we can surely smell the food. Until we figured out that it was undeground, a-hole-in-wall restaurant that sits only 10 people. The queue never disappeared. People just kept on coming. The Miso ramen was very good and it was very cheap too!
After the tasty meal, we went our way to visit Marumaya Park. This park is the most known park in Sapporo to see the Cherry Blossom and it was very beautiful. The area near the Hokkaido Shrine has lots of Cherry Blossom varieties that I’ve never seen before. They were so pretty and I was glad that I got to see them!
The evening came to Sapporo and we explored Sapporo by foot especially the Susukino Area. It was indeed a perfect decision to come to Sapporo at this time of the year to experience the Cherry Blossoms and its peaceful vibe. The next day was a visit to Otaru…
After almost 4 years, I crossed out an item on my birthday wishlist that I created in 2021 and that was to go to a K-Pop concert. I almost gave up on this one. Eventhough I have been 3 times to Seoul recently, the chances of getting a ticket to a K-Pop concert is extremely slim to non existent. So when it was announced last year that the famous Taemin of SHINee is coming to have a concert in Helsinki, I was not sure if I will have enough luck to get a ticket. Although, the thought of him coming to Helsinki is a miracle in itself. I mean, why Helsinki of all places! Then sure enough, when the tickets were going to be released, I was in Osaka. I was again in a situation where I had an extremely slim chance to get a ticket. But then a miracle happened! A kind lady in Finland offered to buy a ticket for me. When the 8,000 tickets were released, it was sold out in less than 2 minutes. But fortunate enough, one of the sold tickets was mine. So grateful!
I was looking forward to the concert but I was not so invested in it either. Maybe because it didn’t hit me just yet that this was really happening. It was when Taemin entered the stage that I finally realised that this was real, that Taemin was really there performing a song that I’ve listened to many times before. It also dawned on me that it was almost 4 years ago when I had my first K-Pop concert (online, of course) and it was also Taemin’s concert. Taemin became my first online and live K-Pop concert!
But was I listening to an album and looking at a music video? Because he sounded just the same in his album and danced just the same in his music videos. In fact, how can someone sing and dance so well at the same time? His voice was stable and his dance moves were so sharp, accurate and well calculated. So amazingly talented! It was like going to a museum and the artist himself was present, showing his craft in perfection.
As the short person I am, I’m always sat at concerts to ensure visibility. From where I was, I was able to experience the whole stage – the amazing vocals, the perfect and synced choreography, the flashing lights, the screaming fans waving their fanlights excitedly, the entire audience singing and dancing… It was surreal and it was absolutely Art. In fact, Taemin is Art.
The things I've seen. The places I've been. 