It seems like summer would not be complete without a trip to a new city. This time we decided to go to a city that is so close yet felt so far away. Far away in a sense because I have never really been interested in Riga. It is one of those cities that I’ve been putting off for a long, long time. But there were still a few days of summer holiday. So we went for it and made Latvia my 52nd country.
We arrived very early in Riga on a small airplane from Helsinki with only one hand-carry. It was fun to walk around the old town when everything was closed. The old town was really pretty and since the centre of Riga is quite small, we spent a large amount of our holiday in the old town. There are also many beautiful public parks in Riga. I love how these parks are large, clean and peaceful. Another thing that was very beautiful in Riga was the Art Nouveau architecture built in the early 20th century during the period of rapid economic growth and Riga was a thriving city of the Russian Empire. I also love the Art Deco cafes dating from 1920s. One of the highlights was visiting the Laima Chocolate Museum from 1870. It was fun to learn about its history and eat lots and lots of chocolate. The hot chocolate was almost death by chocolate! This is one place that should not be missed in Riga.
We also did a day trip to Jūrmala. Jūrmala is a coast town facing the Baltic Sea, some 30 minutes train ride from Riga. The train was clean and modern and only cost 4 EUR per person both ways. There we enjoyed the sun, sea, sand, great food and rain.
Summer came to Helsinki and it was time to get on the camper van that we had reserved half year ago. Camper van rentals tend to be fully booked during the summer. It was even difficult to find one in December. But luckily we did and we were ready to go and explore the roads leading to Senja in Norway!
It was not our first time to rent a camper van to explore the Finnish Lapland and the Northern part of Norway. It was not our first time in Senja either. But these places seem to be the perfect holiday destinations on a camper van in the summer. Summer in Europe tends to get really warm nowadays so going north is very appealing to escape the summer heat.
We left Helsinki before 18.00 with everything we need for our 10 nights journey. There were 5 people in a small space and we wondered how we will survive the trip. The drive was beautiful with the purple and pink flowers adorning the road at every corner. The first stop after a long drive was at a camper van parking in Viitasaari to spend the night. The parking area was beside the lake so the view was lovely. We woke up early and were ready to drive even longer to reach as north as possible and to cross the Arctic Circle. We reached Palojoensuu and parked on an area by the lake for the night. It was raining and we slept early, ready for the next day. The goal was to reach Norway and spend the next night in Senja. It was a long and tiring drive but nothing beats the beautiful view along the roads of Finland, overlooking Sweden while entering Norway. We even tried fishing along the way.
We then reached the camping site in Senja and it was so beautiful. We parked close to the lake surrounded by snow capped mountains with the perfect sunset and sunrise views. There was also a flower field that seemed like I stepped inside Van Gogh’s painting! We stayed two nights in this camping site.
The next day, we parked the van to hike Segla. We were sweating. But then it rained, making it wet and muddy. There was also a very strong wind, something I haven’t experienced before. I honestly thought I would fly away…
After the rainy and very windy hiking experience, we drove to Skaland to look for a camp to stay for a night. We were all so sweaty, wet and muddy from rain that all we can think about was taking a shower and putting on dry clothes. Our van was facing the lake when a beautiful rainbow appeared. In the morning, we saw baby whales enjoying their swim. It was a sight to remember!
We moved to another campsite and this time, Ari bought another fishing rod and caught 3 big fish! So while we were waiting for the ferry to get to Sommaroy the next day, everyone was hoping to catch a fish. And they did!
Sommaroy was so pretty too. It was fun to have barbecue at the camp and to walk by the beautiful beach. We stayed one night in Sommaroy.
The next day, we were ready to explore a city. So we drove to Tromso and enjoyed a walk around town before heading back to Finland. We reached Kilpisjärvi for the night and enjoyed a hike to Saana. When we hiked down, we saw a reindeer on the hiking path. We were so closed to it. I was scared at first but it didn’t really mind us.
Then it was time to visit Santa Claus. We drove to Rovaniemi and stayed at the parking area across the Santa Claus Village. We wanted to see Santa Claus first thing in the morning before we headed south. But we also walked to Santa Claus Village at midnight and crossed the Arctic Circle in the village square. There was no one there. The morning came and we got to meet Santa Claus. It was a fun chat with lots of laughter. No photos inside the room was allowed though.
Then for the last evening, we stayed in Niemenharju. This camping area has great facilities. We enjoyed the sauna and it was a perfect way to spend our last evening in a camper van.
It was the best road trip ever! I really enjoyed the long drive, the beautiful nature, having breakfast together, the meals and barbecues and spending time with each other. I love my tiny corner in the van where I read, journaled and listened to music. The stops along the way were also enjoyable. Even the grocery run was fun as we planned for our meals and stocking up on snacks too. It was a 10 out of 10!
You can find the travel journal of this road trip here.
Nagoya was a fun city to just chill and relax. All I wanted was to take a photo of my Traveler’s Notebook with Nagoya Tower and we did just that. We walked, we shopped, we ate in Nagoya. No other plans whatsoever. I thought we were going to Nagoya Castle but it was so hot that we skipped it. I can’t imagine walking the castle grounds under the hot sun and I’m not into castle either. So we just chased colourful stamps and just enjoyed the long walk with lots of eating in between! We saw a long queue for a Japanese pop group called Impact or was it actually IMP ACT. I think the fans were buying concert tickets and they were all nicely dressed with their photocards and plushies. It was so fun for me to see it!
I love Nagoya. It was not crowded, there were very few tourists and they have lovely peaceful gardens. It was nice to shop because we didn’t have to queue like in Tokyo. Shopping at Uniqlo and Muji was so peaceful and so was Donki. Accommodation was very affordable and lots of cheap yet delicious eats. It was a lovely ending of this trip!
For the never ending repeating tips:
A good pair of walking shoes is a must and be prepared for the stairs!
Registering online at Visit Japan Web for the QR codes for immigration and customs made entering Japan so much faster. I would also say that Chubu Centrair International Airport was the best!
Having an IC card was really useful when using public transport and also paying for convenience store purchases. I also recommend the Tokyo Metro Pass.
It’s fine to buy train tickets at the station. No need to buy beforehand as trains have large capacity to accommodate passengers.
It’s good to have cash as many places only take cash, like street food vendors, small local shops and restaurants and small places like the Kiso Valley.
Having a pocket wifi all the time was very good because we really need to be connected to check on routes and locations. I highly recommend it and it is not expensive at all!
Buy flight tickets early as prices tend to spike up.
Book accommodation that has free cancellation because there might be changes along the way.
In the end, I realised that the very reason why I love Japan is because of the nature and food. I also enjoy looking for stamps and ephemera for my journals. I also like the safety and clean toilets. Also, it is really affordable at this time. I always asked myself after the end of every Japan trip if I wished to return to Japan again. And again this time, it is a yes! I would love to walk in Nagano along the very tall Cedar trees…
Hiking the Nakasendo Trail was something that had attracted me for some years now. So hiking even just a tiny part from Magome to Tsumago felt great! The Nakasendo Trail is one of Japan’s most famous walking paths known as the Samurai Road in the Kiso Valley. It was not a difficult 8.5 km hike but the sun was shining brightly so it was hot. I didn’t anticipate that the umbrella I bought with me in case of rain would help to protect from the strong sun. I also rang all the bells to scare the bears! There were lots of Wisterias too. So beautiful and a sight that I’ve never seen before. They were on the mountains and the paths we passed by. They also smelt so good and sweet! Here is a short clip at Tateba-chaya Teahouse, around halfway from Magome to Tsumago where they offer a place to rest, some candies, a cup of tea and some coloured chalks to write on the wall where the hikers from for that day.
When we arrived in Tsumago, I got certificates and more stamps for my journal from the Tourist Information Centre. I got 15 stamps during this short walk. We had a late lunch of soba in Tsumago before getting on a bus to Nagiso then the train to Nagoya Station. We had to pay everything in cash including the train tickets back to Nagoya. So if you are planning to do this hike, prepare some cash.
On the train from Nagiso to Nagoya Station.
The top one proved that I have walked from Magome to Tsumago and the other one says I have visited Tsumago Juku. These are not paper certificates though but certificates made of super thin wood. So pretty!
My hope is to walk another part of the Nakasendo trail in the near future!
I did consider another country for our next holiday. I really did! But after much thought, my longing for Japan returned. I guess I’m just too old with not much money to spare to go on a holiday that I’m not sure if it will succeed. But having been to Japan 5 times, I haven’t got any disappointment yet whatsoever. So I recall that a 6th time will not hurt either. The tricky part were the dates. The Cherry Blossom season was over in the mainland and we also wanted to avoid the Golden Week. So we decided to go after the Golden Week and to fly to Sapporo for the Cherry Blossom. It was an amazing idea! Sapporo was so beautiful at this time of the year and I have never seen as many varieties of Cherry Blossom in my entire life. I also love Sapporo’s peaceful atmosphere with few tourists. Although I know that it will be a different story during the winter season especially during the Sapporo Snow Festival in February. But we didn’t fly from Helsinki to Sapporo. Instead we flew in to Chubu Centrair International Airport with the initial idea of walking a part of the Nakasendo trail in Kiso Valley for the last part of this trip before flying back to Helsinki.
We arrived in Nagoya in the evening after a 13 hours flight from Helsinki. It was the best immigration process ever. We just walked straight to immigration with no queue whatsoever! We then took the airport limousine to our hotel. We walked a bit near the hotel to the lake (or was it the sea, or river. At least, a body of water) for a refreshing evening walk with a quick bite of this and that from the convenience store. The next day was an early wake up to our flight to Sapporo. It was a rainy Nagoya and it was a good idea to fly away from the rain.
I figured out that Osaka has two faces and that really depends on what you choose to see. It was alright to go to Dotonbori, Shinsekai, Namba and Umeda. But I would really be disappointed if I didn’t get to visit Katsuo-ji Temple and most especially, Mino-o Park. For me, Mino-o Park was the highlight of the Osaka trip. It was a beautiful and easy 2 hours hike that should not be missed. Also don’t forget to try the crunchy Maple leaf “Momiji” tempura and some hot Taiyaki along the way.
Our last day in Osaka was spent at the Osaka Castle Park. There were many areas with beautiful Autumn foliage. It was also there that I found my second Cherry Blossom. The first one was at Kyoto Botanical Garden. Now, I believe that Sakura can also be found in Autumn! There was a chill in the air as the wind was constantly blowing. Leaves were falling in large quantities from the trees which made me wonder if the Autumn in Japan was coming to an end and how we have enjoyed every minute of it!
I’m thankful for the nature, great food and lovely people. Thankful for stationeries, convenience stores, safety and even clean toilets everywhere. Will I return to Japan again for the 6th time? I hope so for I conclude that again Japan didn’t fail me during this holiday. It was a wonderful holiday that was worth every minute and money spent! Please check out the Osaka reels here, here, here and here. You can find my travel journal here.
We took the Northern route back to Helsinki, being my second time to fly over the North Pole. My first time was from Seoul last year. Bye, Japan and see you again soon!
After 4 nights in Kyoto, we took the taxi to the station to buy train tickets to our next destination – Kinosaki Onsen. We took a taxi because you can’t take big luggage on the bus in Kyoto and for this trip, we didn’t reserve tickets beforehand knowing that we can easily buy them at the station. But it’s a good idea to search a bit for the timetable so that you know more or less when you should be at the station. For this trip, I really wanted to include an Onsen experience, although, I know that nothing will beat our time in Kurokawa Onsen in April. I was thinking to go either to Kinosaki Onsen or Arima Onsen and in the end, decided that Kinosaki Onsen looks more pretty. We bought the train tickets from the machine then went to the Ekiben shop on the second floor to get an Ekiben and finally, I found the Hello Kitty bento. Although it was not on the shelf, I figured that they had it because it was early and they were just unpacking the boxes. So I asked the kind lady for it and she opened the box to get one for me. The child in me was extremely happy! You can find the reel here.
The train ride took 2 hours and 24 minutes. It was very fast yet very smooth as one could expect in a Japanese train. So we arrived in no time in the charming town of Kinosaki Onsen and the first thing we did was to buy our tickets for the next day to Osaka. There was a free shuttle bus outside the station that takes visitors to their ryokan. Our ryokan was very close to the ropeway so we decided to take the cable car up after check -in and enjoyed the view of the town and its surroundings.
Unless you are planning to check out the temples, there was not much to do up there so we took the next cable car down to cook our own Onsen Tamago which I definitely recommend. We had a short walk around town then it was time for us to enjoy our private onsen at our ryokan. After the relaxing onsen, it was dinnertime where we were served with Sukiyaki and Matsuba crabs which were large crabs that Kinosaki is known for.
After dinner, we were ready to experience our first Kinosaki public onsen. Dressed in Yukuta and carrying a basket with our towels, we went to Goshino – Yu, an onsen which was built in the likeness of Kyoto’s Imperial Palace. It has a waterfall and surrounded by beautiful Japanese maple trees. It was a good choice since we were only planning to go to two public onsens out of the six. It was so refreshing and a cold milk was important to finish off the onsen mission of the day!
After breakfast the next day, we went to the onsen closest to our ryokan which was my second onsen choice – Kono – Yu. It has an outdoor onsen and I enjoyed every moment of peace and quiet as there was no one else in the onsen.
Then it was time to check out of our ryokan and explored the town a bit for coffee and souvenirs before taking the train to Osaka! Check out the reel of the day here.
The last time I was in Kyoto was in 2018. But we had to go back because every time I searched for the best Autumn places in Japan, Kyoto was on top of the list. It was not just because of the Autumn colours, but it has something to do with the old architectures blending well with the Autumn foliage. And this was perfectly true! Autumn colours can be everywhere but not as dramatic as the Autumn in Kyoto. When we arrived in Kyoto, it was the peak of Autumn so we were able to enjoy it everywhere we went.
But Kyoto is a bit problematic for me. It was so crowded. The buses were too crowded. I didn’t like it that way and I don’t remember it this crowded when we were there in 2018. It made me tired and not want to go back to Japan again until we spent our last day at Kyoto Botanical Garden. It was so beautiful and so peaceful. We had all the beauty, space and time that it made me want to return to Japan again! And if you like stamps, you must try the layered stamp rally at the Garden. We also enjoyed a rustic breakfast on the way to the Garden at a very interesting, rugged Cafe Bar that had a Brazilian theme. The breakfast set of cheese toast, boiled egg and Brazilian coffee was only 300 Yen (1,88 EUR). The coffee was really good and the owners were really kind and very friendly. They showed us photos from trips in Brazil in the early 80’s. Such a fun encounter!
Anyway, just for your information. If you want to see the Bamboo Forest, be kind to yourself and go to Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. Don’t kid yourself and go to Sagano Bamboo Forest instead because it is not the same. Don’t believe that Social Media hype about Sagano!
When we visited Takayama last year, I thought it would be great to go all the way to Kanazawa. But we didn’t do it because of lack of time. So I was happy that we finally get to stay in Kanazawa during this holiday. We took the local train from Nara to Kyoto then from Kyoto, we changed train at Tsugura station before reaching Kanazawa. We happily boarded the train with our self heating Ekiben! Such a fun experience!
The rain was on and off in Kanazawa when we were there but that didn’t stop us from exploring the city. Carrying our umbrellas with us, we were ready to see what the city had to offer. It was also said that there are three perfect gardens in Japan so it was a delight to visit one of them in Kanazawa. Kenrokuen Garden was the most beautiful garden I’ve ever seen in my entire life! They said that this garden is beautiful in every season but Autumn made it magical with its abundant, vibrant, explosive colours that covered every corner of the garden.
It was also fascinating to learn about the Samurai culture, to visit a Samurai house and to walk in the old Samurai town. It was like going back in time and I’m happy to be able to experience it. You can find the reel of the day here, here and here.
I’m so thankful for a wonderful three nights in Kanazawa. Then it was time to board the Shinkansen to Kyoto!
It didn’t take much thinking to figure out where to go for our next holiday. We just immediately decided that it will be good to go to Japan for the second time this year and enjoy the Autumn season. But little did I know that I will love it so much. Autumn in Japan was so beautiful and breathtaking. I didn’t imagine the intensity of the colours and the heartwarming feeling to see Ginkgo trees for the first time. It was a long flight and the plane tickets were not always the cheapest but it was so worth it!
We landed in Kansai Airport after almost 13 hours flight from Helsinki. This time we decided to skip Tokyo and take the Kansai route. Nara was our first Kansai destination. After picking up our pre-rented pocket wifi, buying IC cards and withdrawing some cash, we boarded the Nara Kotsu Airport limousine bus which took us directly to Nara. I know that many visit Nara on a day trip but I wanted to experience Nara more than just a day trip. So we stayed in Nara for three nights at the Nara Visitor Centre and Inn which was a good choice because of its central location, spacious room and there were cultural activities happening at the centre all the time.
For our first morning, we decided to start our day at 6:00 in the morning and I was so happy that we did. We had the most peaceful, most beautiful morning walk surrounded by wandering deers. At that moment, I immediately knew that we were at the right place, at the right time. It was so breathtaking! We just wandered around, passing by the Wakayama Jinja Shrine, took photos by the Sagi-ike pond, spent time at Todaiji Temple grounds while meeting more and more deers along the way. It was wonderful to explore Nara by foot and just went where the path led us. The next day, we explored the old town and went to Naramachi Nigiwai-no-Ie, a traditional townhouse built in 1917. It was very fascinating! We also visited the beautiful three acres Isuien Garden. In Nara, there were many places to enjoy good food and although we didn’t witness the Mochi pounding, we were able to get freshly made ones. They were the best Mochis I’ve ever had! Back at the Nara Visitor Centre and Inn, I learned how to make a deer origami. They also wrote our names in Japanese kanji and gifted us with chopsticks. I also got stickers and stamps for my travel journal.
I did fell in love with Nara and its cultural charm and nature. I love its small town feel and relaxed atmosphere. I was happy that I spent more than just a day trip in Nara! Check out the reel of the day here and here. After three nights in Nara, it was time to take the Shinkansen to Kanazawa.
The things I've seen. The places I've been. 